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Organic Beekeepers: Organic
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Organic Beekeeping Journal Honeybee
Forage and Bee Gardens
JI Rodale's Encyclopedia of Organic
Gardening 1971 - Eighteenth Printing "Forests
were cut down, fields were made larger. Controlled burning of
woods and wasteland destroyed the home and food supply of the
wild pollinators. Implements ripped up the burrows of the
beneficial earth-dwelling bees; and others who nested in reeds
lost their homes and food plants.......Concentrated plantings of
one crop over large acreages left the bees no wild plants to
live on when the crop was not blooming; with nothing to fill in
the gap in their food supply, they starved and disappeared
practically overnight." The section goes on to a
solution "Tests by various experiment stations
showed that on a cultivated plot situated next to overgrown
land, wild bees were four times as numerous as on tilled plots
surrounded by other tilled land. You can preserve some
uncultivated or eroded land specifically for bees, and sometimes
bee broods found on land that is to be tilled can be moved to
these areas. Plant them to trees, shrubs, grasses and legumes,
and keep your livestock out."
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Creating the forage or bee garden**For
beekeepers with a large piece of land available, leaving land
untilled is a formidable choice. Many beekeepers do not have
this advantage but there are other ways to add to the forage.
**A bee garden is a worthwhile project. Plants can be
companioned for the health of the bees as well as honey flow.
Special attention can be given to early and late blooming forage
to help at a time when bees are most vulnerable to difficulties
such as robbers or starvation. Some plants are so very rich in
nectar or pollen, that one tree or bush or plot of land can
provide a substantial supply. For instance, Rodale reported one
lime bush could keep one hive in nectar all season and one acre
of anise hyssop has been said to be enough nectar for 100 hives.
Where these figures may not be exact in all circumstances, it is
a place for us to start our work in pursuing the Art of Organic
Beekeeping. |
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Bee Plants
for the landscaper | Early
and late blooming bee plants
Herbs and Flowers
Comfrey Germander Veronica Nasturtium Stevia Basil Butterfly
weed Buglass Chamomile Chicory Dropwort Fennel Ground
Ivy Hyssop Lavender Marjoram Melilot Dead
Nettle Queen of the Meadow Winter Savory Fuschia Blanket
Flower Snapdragon Catmint Catnip Clovers Cresses |
Rosemary Pincushion Goldenrod Yarrow Milkweed Aster Bellflower Cornflower Chrysanthemum Lily
of the Valley Coreopsis Foxglove Fleabane Russian
Sage Sages Buckwheat Lungwort Pulsatilla
(Pasque Fl) Bee Balm (Bergamot) Lemon Balm Thyme Borage Snakeroot All
Mints Teasel Daphne Dandelion |
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Bushes, Shrubs and Hedges
Button Bush Russian Olive Hebe Bush
Clover Spice bush Bush Cherry Firethorn Sumac Pussy
Willow Thimbleberry Snowberry Blueberry Lingonberry Cranberry Manzanita
(UvaUrsi) Oregon Grape Mock Orange Hollies Desert
Willow Crape Myrtle (pruned to bush) Escallonia |
Vines Wineberry Honeysuckles |
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Small TreesLoquat Bee Bee Tree Silverbell
Trees Hollies Quince Redbud Lilacs Blue Mist
(Coryopteris) Serviceberry Plum trees Dwarf fruit
trees Hazels Alder Medlar Crape Myrtle |
TreesGolden Raintree Tulip Tree (Yellow
Poplar) Abelia Tree of Heaven Acacia (Locust or
Wattle) Maples (Red, Silver, Sugar etc) Devil's Walking
Stick American Yellow Wood Summer Sweet Cotoneaster Hawthorn Tupelo
(black gum) Sorrel (Sourwood) Willows Basswood Linden Elm Chaste
Tree Persimmon Horse Chestnut Chinese and Oregon
Ash |
Cultivated Fruit Tree VarietiesApples Cherries Peach Apricot Plum Pears Citrus
(all varieties) |
Vegetable Garden PlantsCorn Tomatoes Peppers Cucumbers Melons Beans Legumes
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Early Forage Maples Alder Dandelion Winter
Honeysuckle Willows Pussy Willow Peaches Plums Apples Buckwheat Crabapples |
Late ForageAsters Bush Clover Clovers Goldenrod Witch
Hazels Bee Bee Tree |
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